Off to the Hills.....September 1982.
Once a year (at least) I try to get away to North Wales or another climbing area where I can lead and play mountaineers. Snowdonia has been a persistent favourite since my first climbing visit to the area in 1982. On this occasion, I went with Patsy and we met a friend of hers up there. Andy was about 21 at the time and had a reasonable amount of mountaineering experience having climbed with his parents. I was 27 and Patsy - well, we don't ask a lady! I had been away caving to Yorkshire and Derbyshire but found Snowdonia fantastic. We camped in the Ogwen valley at Gwern-y-Gof Uchaf having sunk a few beers after the 300-mile drive from Kent. The next morning, as I crawled out of my tent, I was confronted with Tryfan - brilliantly lit in full sunlight. There was hardly a cloud in the sky.
We breakfasted and drove the short distance to the foot of the North Ridge. About half way up heather Terrace, a route rises toward the summit. We set off up Grooved Arete - graded v.diff. Andy led off while I belayed. He climbed quickly, placing the odd piece of gear until he reached a belay. Patsy followed and then me. Not difficult climbing but I was learning a new technique and studied the gear placements. Andy led off up the second pitch and we followed in the same order. Arriving at the belay, I led on up the next pitch having picked up some extra pieces from Andy. The angle was far from steep but I became aware of the runout although there was no psychological pressure as I could easily stop to place gear. I brought the others up and Andy led on through. At the crux pitch, Knight's Move, I led off. This was more serious as a fall from here would have been nasty. I placed gear more frequently, thinking about the consequences of a fall. On sandstone, the top-rope leaves you with a false sense of security whilst allowing attempts to be made at harder climbs. In caving, you can't see the exposure! At the top of the slab, a corner is turned and a wall climbed. Here, there is considerable exposure as the ground falls away for over a hundred feet but, the climbing was not hard and I belayed at the top. We continued up the 8 pitches, finishing on top of Tryfan. The weather was fantastic as we gained the freedom of Tryfan by jumping from Adam to Eve (and back again - no mean feat in itself!). We wandered down via the saddle and Heather Terrace, retrieving our sacks as we went.
Andy suggested we go into the Llanberis Pass to another crag. Clogwyn y Grochan is reached by scrambling up a field of boulders, many of which must have come from the crag. It's steeper than the impression one gets from the road - it is also quite high and presents the climber with a large number of climbs in all grades. Andy suggested a single pitch climb - Brant Direct, an HVS 5a. I'd climbed 5c on Sandstone for a good while now and so felt that it would be within my capabilities and - I could always come down! I geared up and set off. The wide bridging manoeuvres at the bottom proving to be quite taxing with the added concerns about leading. I placed some gear and felt happier. The climbing was not desperate, the difficulties being mainly down to stopping to place gear. The rock is quite different to sandstone with sharp holds and pockets. I made progress and was able to rest by bridging. I felt in control of the situation and was enjoying the climb. The crux is a small roof, passed by bridging and a reach to a good hold and the in-situ gear below it meant I didn't have to search for a placement. The top came quickly and I stepped into the deep crack and looked round for a belay. I probably placed four pieces and spent time tying them all together before I brought Andy up. He cruised it and was soon on the belay next to me. Patsy was next and being shorter found the initial moves difficult. Not one to give up, she struggled on. The way off was by abseil from a Holly Tree at the belay on 1st Amendment. We belayed each other across and ab'd.
Something a little easier then as we headed off up Nea HS 4a. Andy led the first pitch and belayed on the ramp. Patsy went next and found the step terrifying. It took a while to coax her round - I'd soloed up to the shelf beside her. Eventually, she sorted it and I tied on and climbed, leading through to the second pitch. I think we got to the top of the 4th pitch when we decided to call it a day as it was getting late. At this point it is possible to traverse off and walk down the side of the crag. A few more beers were sunk!
The next day we were back in the pass, this time on Dinas Cromlech. Andy wanted to do Cenotaph Corner - a name I'd heard but knew but little else about. It was graded XS 5b, a single pitch 120 feet, straight up the right-angled corner. The walk up was a slog and we kitted below the main crag, climbing up - with considerable exposure - to the bottom of the corner. Left Wall, Right Wall and Lord of the Flies (one of the UK's hardest climbs at the time) towered above us - they looked desperate and incredibly intimidating, mainly due to their vertical nature. We set out the ropes and sorted Andy's rack. It came as quite a surprise when Andy asked me if I wanted to lead it! I think my initial reaction was "you're Joking!" as I was intimidated enough at the thought of seconding it! After a few minutes thought (well - it's only 5b.....it'll be just like the Niblick at Harrison's.....) I said "Well, I'll give it a go". It is, after all, a corner - a crack - there'll be holds on the walls to rest on.....I talked myself into it. Andy hung incredible amounts of ironmongery from my harness and bandoleer - an old orange 4' sling I'd pressed into service, and, almost as an afterthought, tied a chalk bag on. I'd never used chalk and wasn't about to, but I let it go. Belays were set up and I looked up at the task ahead. I set off in a fairly positive manner, although fully expecting to back-climb if it was too much. It wasn't so bad and I progressed slowly, placing gear easily. A boulder, jammed in the crack, provided a thread - I was going well and although acutely aware of my predicament, was quite enjoying myself. There were holds on the walls and I managed to get a hands-off rest with my nose in the crack. I pressed on and soon found myself at the niche, above which was a rusty peg! I clipped the peg and arranged some other gear. I was fairly pumped by this time and tried to rest my arms, again by bridging although it was more precarious here! Rest over - I could see the top about 25' above but stretching up for a jam, my hands were sweaty and it wouldn't hold. There was little else for my hands and a finger crack beckoned above looking like a layback might be necessary. The chalk bag! I dipped in and tried the hold again - it stuck and I pulled up, laying back off the crack above. This was the crux and a few pulls got a good hold above. No time to stop and place gear as I was puffing, sweating and running out of steam. The difficulties eased and I streaked for the top. Pulling myself over the lip, I lay gasping - my throat like the bottom of a budgies cage - head thumping.
After a few minutes, I got up and walked round a tree, making a belay in the process, arranging it so that I could sit on the edge and see what was going on. What a fantastic position! 120' above the tiny figures of Patsy and Andy and an unfathomable height above the car in the valley below. The cool breeze was very welcome as I brought Andy up, my head still in a whirl. Andy stripped most of the gear and joined me on the ledge. Patsy began climbing - progressing slowly at first - then steadily. A tug at some difficulties - then on. At the crux, she was off and I started to lower her until, chastened by a verbal hail of technical climbing terms, I was left in no doubt that I should hang on! Patsy struggled on, past the crux and onto the easier ground, joining Andy and I on the ledge. What an epic! My second lead - an Extreme! There was much talk and banter then a fantastic 120' abseil back to the ledge.