Left Wall – Dinas Cromlech, Pass of Llanberis, Snowdonia.
Dinas Cromlech and particularly Left Wall has always been a great attraction to me. I first saw it at close quarters back in 1982 when I lead Cenotaph Corner for the first time (my second ever lead – I did Brant Direct the day before!). At that time, it looked incredibly steep and sustained. I watched two leaders on the climb – both, reinforcing it’s reputation, fell off at the crux!
It seemed well out of my league (it was E3 then) but seemed such a perfect line. Over the intervening years we did Cemetery Gates, Ivy Sepulchre, Curfew and many other climbs on the Cromlech – each time there seemed to be someone on Left Wall. Some cruised it, others had problems, some even backed off but the attraction remained – a test piece.
Back in 1994, I’d been climbing on the local sandstone outcrops as usual and seemed to be going quite well. Unfortunately, no one seemed to want to go away to Snowdonia that year – too busy or wanting to visit other areas. In August, whilst talking to my old climbing partner Chris, I learned that he would be working in the Harlech area early in September and would be keen to climb.
Recently, other climbing friends had done Left Wall, notably John and Patsy. John had ripped up it, having a great time, "I placed only nine pieces of gear" and Patsy had had no real problems seconding although she’d found the traverse at the top a bit unnerving – apparently "like a row of loose teeth". This gave me some confidence.
It was about lunchtime that we met at the Cromlech Stones. We’d not climbed together much recently but it was good to see the old bugger. We’d done some of our most testing caving trips together and seemed to feed off each other’s enthusiasm. Chris was by now an accomplished climber and had many "hard" leads under his belt. We’d spent a good year as climbing partners back in the early eighties.
Kit was packed into sacs and we set off up to the Cromlech. I felt quietly confident although well aware of the difficulties that lie ahead. We settled ourselves on the ledge. There was another pair on the climb and I tried not to watch them so that I would have a clean run at it. The leader fell off at the crux!
The day was bright and reasonably warm and we busied ourselves laying out ropes and checking gear as usual. I had a varied rack – all nuts, no cams – with a few extra small rocks. It was warm but I thought I’d better wear a bucket. So there I was at the start – a nervous wee and a moment’s composure. Looking up, the line is obvious and appealing. I started out climbing quickly up the first vertical section, placing some larger nuts. The adrenaline started to rush and I was enjoying myself, finding the climbing ok and the gear excellent. I swept right, placing more gear – some stonking placements – until I reached the right hand limit. At this point, the climb meets with Resurrection (E4 6A) and there was a climber grunting his way up, looking for a rest. I could stand at this point without too much effort and let him place gear and rest as, at the time, his needs seemed to be significantly greater than mine! Fifteen minutes or so passed and he moved off, giving me the chance to continue. The Adrenaline had gone and I’d cooled off a bit but was still in control! I set off, up and left toward the crux. Small wires were now all that could be placed but, to be fair, they were good placements. I stretched out left, following a thin flake, placed a Rock 2 and continued. There was not much for my feet but I progressed for a few feet more. The flake petered out and I looked up to the finish. The crack above looked good but was some ten feet away. I was now on my fingernails with my right hand and frictioned with both feet. I searched for a left handhold but there was nothing obvious. The adrenaline was back and I felt the pressure building. I was eight to ten feet above the Rock 2 and getting pumped. The finishing traverse beckoned above but the problem remained. I searched for something to enable me to reach the crack above. Next moment, I was flying and almost instantaneously hanging in my harness from the Rock 2, now some 15 feet above me! I was gutted and relieved and amazed and – every other emotion you can think of. "I think you fell off" came Chris’ typically dry response from below. I hung there for a minute or so and got back on the rock. I got back to the crux and placed a further Rock 1. But I was pumped and my heart was not in it. I pinged off again. As I fell, the Rock 1 ripped and smashed into my bucket with a sharp crack. I hang there – completely dejected. My forearms were like anvils. The thought of having to admit defeat was overwhelming. I hung there for five minutes or more shaking my arms out, trying to muster the will to go on. Chris, to his credit, kept quiet and hung on.
I set off again with as much determination as I could muster. I got back to my high point and once again searched for that left handhold – or another way of solving the problem. A reach to a small finger pocket sorted it – both my feet came off but that was the least of my worries. I pulled up and reached the crack, back in control and buzzing again. The traverse off was a joy and I finished up the arete to the block and a colourful array of tapes. I belayed and whooped and shouted! Chris followed up easily (as is his way).
Certainly one of my best climbs! G.A.