Falaise.

The beautiful town of Falaise lies about 40km south south east of Caen on the N158. William the conqueror was born here in 1027 according to the statue in the main square. The word 'Falaise' translates to 'cliff' so it was no surprise to find some climbing here. The town is dominated by a chateaux with a huge turret atop a mound of rock although checking this out, we soon came to the conclusion that it was probably not the best place to climb!

The crag is called "Mont Myrrha" and typing this into a search engine is a bit more specific than 'falaise' as that generates all manner of climbing as well as other stuff.

The Rock'n'Orne site has good info here. There's also stuff on the FFME site here.

We camped at the Municipal camp site - clean and well kept, we were charged €8.20 a night for the two of us and a tent. Good hot showers!

The crag can be seen from the campsite and was one of the first things we noticed on arrival and although we didn't have time to do anything except boulder here on our first visit in 2002 but this time we did the lot.... There are apparently 60 routes here from F3 to F7 grades. It's almost possible to belay from the sunroof here as the lower part of the crag is right beside the road. A short walk up to the left of the roadside crag takes you to further climbing - a lot of which is in the lower grades along with some bouldering. We spent an afternoon here and although we had no topo, just climbed! There is a topo available from the local tourist information. We spent our last morning here as well, climbing the stuff by the road - slightly harder, probably in the 4's and 5's. The route on the right hand side of the crag was particularly good and probably 5+.

The Chateaux

The town of Falaise and statue of William the Conqueror.

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