Clecy - Les Rochers Des Parcs.
Topo available from the Tabac next to the Tourist Information Bureaux in Clecy - €8.38.
Pubs/Watering Holes - a few in clecy (including a 'pub' where English is spoken and Kronenborg 1664 is 'only' €4 a half litre).
Eating - shops in Clecy - (lunchtime closing) and some nice restaurants.
Les Rochers des parcs is close to the town of Clecy, 32km south west
of Caen on the D562 or about 30km to the west from Falaise along the D511. The
outcrop lies above the western bank of the River Orne just outside the town.
Go through Clecy, (get your topo from the Tabac next to the Information centre
in the main square - pic below right) and follow signs for Le Vey. Cross the
river after a sharp left-hand bend and then turn right. 
Follow
this road for 200m or so until the tarmac runs out. Continue ahead along the
track until you come to a viaduct carrying a disused railway over the River
Orne. Park on the grass area, climb directly up to the railway level and walk
out onto the viaduct from where there's a good panorama of the crag (see pix
above). Head away from the river for 50m or so and turn right along a footpath
(marked with a metal stake). The crag starts 150m along this track. Alternatively,
walk under the viaduct from the car parking area and up any of the paths on
the left as they join the crag at various points - note: some of these are signposted
private etc. The crag is quite long and somewhat reminiscent of Tremadog as
it rises from the trees. The rock is apparently 'puddingstone'. It's dark coloured
and has pebbly bits in it. The crag is well (some might say excessively!) equipped
with modern ring bolts that appear to have been glued into the rock (which will
take additional trad gear if desired). There are climbs in all grades, F2a to
F7a with a good number in the easier categories. We found the grading to be
a bit stiff - some of the 5's we did would get 6a or 6a+ at other crags. Similarly
the 4/4+ would get 5 or 5+. The crag faces south west and dries quickly after
rain.
We went armed with Bill Birkett's 'French Rock' and although it got us to the crag, the route descriptions leave a little to be desired. We started on a 2 pitch route called 'Toboggan' graded 3+. Nice climbing to acclimatise ourselves with the rock. From where I stood at the top of the route, I could touch 5 bolts without trying! We continued on up L'Ombilic (3+).
Le C.O.B. (5-) just to the left looked good - and it was, although I thought a little stiff for the grade. La Dalle de la Souris (4+), Le Resurrection (4+, with an awkward roof!!), and La Souris (4) followed, all done in blistering September sunshine which didn't help with hand friction.
Routes at the viaduct end of the crag are generally 15 - 20m in length. For most routes we descended by abseil but there was an extensive rope trail descent along the top of this part of the crag, leading down one of the gullies. Further along, the crag rises to 25m or so at La Chartreuse.
Next day, Mike led off up L'Essaim (5) and I got the prize - La Chartreuse (4+) with a great finish through the improbable looking roof. We also looked at La Z, given 5+/6a in the topo, The upper part was certainly 6b in my book and the 'interestingly' named route next door which I won't expand upon, suffice to say 'KFF' (5).
There is more rock beyond although the area is clearly not so popular. The path becomes less distinct and you end up fighting your way along an increasingly steep hillside through brambles and trees. Time didn't allow us to explore further (well, that's our excuse anyway).
A further crag - La Aiguillette du Pain de Sucre - lies to the north. We could see this from the road bridge near Le Vey. Follow the railway above Le Vey until the river and railway turn west. The crag lies on the northern bank again facing south. We didn't climb here but it can be seen to the north from the road bridge across the Orne. It is described in the topo.
Click on the images below to expand...
 Le
Cob (5- ) |
Resurrection (4+ ) |
 Mike
on La Dalle de la Souris (4+) |
 L'Essaim
(5) |
 La
Chartreuse (4+) |
Mike on La 'Z' |