Eridge Green Rocks.

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Turn down the lane beside Eridge Church off the A26 Tunbridge Wells to Crowborough road at TQ557357 and follow it for 400m to a recently laid car park on the right below the start of the outcrop. The crag is in Eridge Park, a particularly beautiful woodland setting adjoining The Warren with it's maze of intersecting footpaths.

Eridge Green Rocks were, for years, closed to climbers. There were however many 'clandestine' sessions and stories of being 'asked to leave' after having you rope spotted by the gamekeeper as you secreted yourself in the bushes in an effort to avoid detection are rife. At one time on the mid 1980's, a permit scheme was introduced, a prospective climber having to apply to an estate agent in Lewes for permission to climb on a specific day. I certainly don't remember anyone having used it.

Thankfully those days are long gone and since the Sussex Wildlife Trust have been in control, climbing is, once again, permitted. As part of the access agreement, certain climbs in the amphitheatre and the Demon Wall area are out of bounds in an effort to preserve rare mosses, ferns etc. that inhabit the area. Please respect the restriction. The restricted area is clearly defined on the noticeboards in the car park. Failure to respect the restriction will undoubtedly result in either further restriction or a total ban being reimposed.

This outcrop is more of an adventure crag than Bowles and Harrisons with their bolted belays. Here, you're back to nature so bring your 'tat' for tying belays off to the Rhodies and trees along the crag top. I'd suggest at least 20 feet (6m) of static 11mm rope or long tape slings for belays. Finding the best way up to fix the belay before you start to climb is also a challenge, particularly along the further reaches by Stirling Moss and Steelmill. Shorts are a bit risky with some of the brambles! Eridge is also less eroded than the other main outcrops and being less popular with 'day trippers' is likely to stay that way.

However, less popular certainly doesn't mean any less well endowed with quality climbs. The outcrop varies in height from 15-20 feet (5-6m) along the initial part to 30 feet (10m) along the further section. There are climbs in all grades.

The climbs above the car park are in the Equilibrium Wall area, followed, walking north (right as you face the crag) by the nose of 'Prowess' and the low cave of Parisian Affair. From here, the restriction applies - past Tiger Moth and Demon Wall. Climbing is permitted on Sandstorm, The Crunch and More Cake For Me. The Amphitheatre is again banned but the restriction lifts after passing the nose of 'The Beguiled'. Here, the outcrop takes a 90 degree turn left and the outcrop becomes less continuous. Follow the track until it turns 90 degrees right. Now the rock becomes more solid. Here you pass Thrutch and then come to the Eridge Pillar, a verical monolith standing proud from the rest of the outcrop. A few more yards to Stirling Moss and Scooped Slab then Dilemma and onto the Yew tree overhung wall of Steelmill with its characteristic dark colored rock. The next prow is Asterix and Roman Nose, then Concorde and, as the track makes a slight chicane left, Fandango. The outcrop once again becomes less continuous passing the amazingly formed 'hand' of Keystone Wall and some smaller boulders to the isolated Eridge Tower on which all routes are good. There is more rock to be seen beyond this but it is again restricted.

Lourdes on 'Truncate' 3a	Loz powers up 'Parisian Affair' 6a	Further up Parisian Affair

	More photos to come!
Topping out on Parisian Affair

Click here for Eridge photo Gallery 1  Gallery 2

Recommended Climbs:

4c: Remus
5a: Equilibrium Wall (5b in the guidebook!), Hanging Crack, Scooped Slab, Battlements Crack.
5b: Siesta Wall and Inominate Crack - (two of the hardest 5b's around!), Romulus, Hadrian's Wall, Concorde
5c: Fandango, Asterix, Portcullis, The Pillar, Antoninus
6a: Stirling Moss, Steelmill, Steamroller, Sandstorm, Genesis, Touchdown, Obelisk, Life in the Old Dog Yet.

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