Bowles
Rocks.
Back
to Sandstone home.
This outcrop was virtually
unknown until the mid 1950's and even then sported only a few climbs. It was
really 'discovered' in the '60's' and rescued from the undergrowth. It has to
be one of the best outcrops although its popularity leaves you with no feeling
of isolation or wilderness. The 'centre' is run by a trust and has a dry ski
slope and residential accommodation for the courses they run. Bowles Rocks are
on the east side of the A26 about 2 miles north of Crowborough, East Sussex,
NGR: TQ542330 on OS Explorer (1:25000) sheet No. 135 or OS Landranger Series
(1:50000) Sheet No.188. The climbing is excellent with good routes in all grades.
In common with the other sandstone outcrops, soloing or top-roping are practiced,
the rock being far too friable to accept traditional protection used in leading.
There are large ring bolts along the top of the crag - extend your krab over
the edge using a sling or static belay to avoid damaging the rock any further.
The outcrop is about 35 feet high at its highest point (Inspiration / Serenade
arete) but generally 30 feet or less.
| NGR |
TQ542330 Sheet135
(1:25000), Sheet 188 (1:50000)
|
| Number of climbs |
150+ |
| Grade range |
1a to 6c - Face and
crack climbs up to 30' (10m) |
| Aspect |
SSE. A real sun trap. |
| Equipment |
Almost fully bolted.
Use a long sling or tat to extend krab over edge. |
| Condition |
Excellent. Usually
the first to dry. Can be climbable in light rain. |
| Bouldering |
Some excellent problems
and low level traverses |
| Ownership |
Private - Owned by
Bowles Trust. 'Open Climbing' scheme - £1.40/day (80p after 2pm) |
| Other Facilities |
Toilets and car park
on site, dry ski slope, Residential instruction/courses available. |
| Pubs |
The Huntsman by Eridge
Station, The Boars Head off the A26 toward Crowborough. |
 |
|
Above. The overhang
on Hate 6a - see
photo gallery. A definite test piece! Much tried and fallen off but
an excellent technical climb. This picture was taken in December 1982
- my second pair of Asolo Chouinard 'Canyons' - a revolutionary rock boot
of its day. These featured leather uppers and were closely followed by
the 'Fire' from Boreal - the first boots with sticky rubber, renowned
for being uncomfortable.
|
Above This gem is Sandman -
6b. A delicate and technical move to this position allows you to grab
the 'stal' on the arete. This theoretically gains you the ledge.....The
problems are not over then! The crack to the right is Charlie's Chimney
3a.
|
 |
Left This is Funnel
Wall at Bowles, unfortunately becoming very undercut, making the otherwise
excellent easier climbs here very difficult to start and unbalancing them
grade wise....particularly for the short.
Funnel 4a is the groove in the centre of
the headwall
|
Bowles
Photo Galleries - Gallery
1 Gallery
2 Gallery
3
Recommended
routes at Bowles Rocks include:
1,2: Harden Gulley, Reclamation
Slab, Red Peg, Birch Crack, Renison Gully.
3a: Well's Reach, Skiffle, Claire, Sing Sing.
3b: Fragile Wall, Skiffle.
4a: Funnel, Kemp's Delight, Yo Yo, Netwall.
4b: Dival's Diversion
4c: E.S. Cadet Nose, October, Sapper!!
5a: Pig's Nose, Larchant,
5b: Burlap, Henessey Heights, Drosophila, Devaluation, Jackie, Swastika, Seltzer
5c: Fandango, Inspiration, Pig's Ear, U.N., Target, Perspiration, Manita, Juanita.
6a: Banana, Serenade Arete, Digitalis, Hate, Fandango Right Hand, Koffler.
For the hard men.....(and
women).....Cardboard Box, Sandman, Temptation, Carbide Finger, The Thing, The
Wrecker.....
Back
to Sandstone home.
The following photos were
taken in 1980.....the outcrop has changed a bit since then - perhaps most notably,
the ground erosion beneath the crag...
Click on the thumbnails
to expand them.
|
|
|
| Banana Area |
Fandango Wall |
|
|
|
| Inspiration Area |
Range Wall |
 |
 |
| Henessey Heights |
Ballerina Area |
Back
to Sandstone home.
