The Flakes 6a. Comes
in from the left - this is the crux - move left and up the crack. Easier
said than done!
Coronation Crack (also 6a) is the crack below my feet and leads up to
this finish as well.
Harrison's Rocks are owned by the BMC and managed by a committee. There is a car park between Birchden and Aytton's wood - (entrance at NGR: TQ53533660) and a track from the lower end of the car park leads along the western edge of Birchden Wood to the North Boulder and the start of the outcrop. One of the largest outcrops, Harrisons is deservedly popular, the majority facing west and part south-west in a woodland setting. Harrisons is a popular venue for bouldering as well as easier climbs. An isolated boulder some 25 feet in height is one of the prime features, covered with starred routes, Isolated Buttress Climb 4c being the easiest.
| NGR |
TQ532360 to 534353 Sheet135 (1:25000), Sheet 188 (1:50000) |
| Number of climbs | approx. 300 |
| Grade range | 1a to 6c |
| Aspect | WSW and SSW |
| Equipment | Almost fully bolted. Use a long sling or tat and hang the krab over the edge. |
| Condition | The SE end is undoubtedly drier but the whole crag is generally good. (There are notable exceptions - Garden slab etc.) |
| Bouldering | North Boulder is good. Some on the Isolated Butress. |
| Ownership | BMC (well, shortly!). The crag was purchased by climbers in the '60s. |
| Other Facilities | Toilet Block, Car Park |
| Pubs | The Junction Inn and the Crown Inn, Groombridge |
One of the best routes at Harrisons is North West Corner 5c. It takes the North West arete of the Isolated Buttress. All the climbs on the Isolated Boulder are worth 2 or 3 stars. Getting off the boulder is for some the worst part as you have to jump the gap between the boulder and the main crag. In fact, the gap is probably only a metre but a fall would be quite serious. There have probably been more epics at the jump than on all the routes on the boulder! One sure fire method of getting a not too keen climber off the block is to leave for the pub - particularly at the end of a summer evening's climbing, about 10:10pm.....The boulder is about 25 feet (8m) high.
There is much erosion both on the block, which is now minimised by the placement of bolts at the crag edge and on the floor where the passage of thousands of climbers and heavy rainfall does nothing to help. There has been some coir matting applied to the ground in an attempt to reduce the drift of sand and perhaps promote some grass growth but I fear the battle is hopeless. The net effect is for the crag to get taller but some of the starts are becoming boulder problems in themselves.
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| This picture shows Greenfinger, another 5c next to N.W Corner. The climb consists of a wall with small sharp holds to a flake (my left hand is on the flake here) and a finish to the left of the perched block. | Crowborough Corner 5c again on the Isolated Buttress. A climber can just be seen starting Birchden Corner 5c. |
The Flakes 6a. Comes
in from the left - this is the crux - move left and up the crack. Easier
said than done! |
Below. 'Far Left' 5c on the Unclimbed Wall. This wall has many starred routes,
offering thin face climbing in the 5b-6b grades (Click to expand).
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Two views of Right
Unclimbed 6a.
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Below.....Rift 5c. (Click to expand) (Spot the 'traditional' waist belay and the famous guidebook writer!)
More photos from Harrisons - click Photo Gallery 1 or Photo Gallery 2
Recommended Climbs:
6a: South West Corner,
Right Unclimbed, Boysen's Arete, The Mank, The Knam, The Flakes, Sossblitz,
Phillipa, Hangover III, Coronation Crack.
5c: North West Corner, Wailing Wall,
Birchden Corner, Diversion, Last Chance, Bulging Wall, Solstice, Rift, Witches
Broomstick, Greenfinger, West Wall, Toxopholite,
Quiver, Little Sagittarius, Slim Finger Crack, Vulture Crack, Orangutang.
5b: Niblick, Birchden Wall, Unclimbed
Wall, Pelmet.
5a: Stupid Effort, Spout Crossing,
Long Layback, Zig Zag, Grant's Crack
4c: Hell Wall, Wander at Leisure,
Isolated Buttress Climb, The Vice.