Odin's
Wall 5c
Coronation
Crack 5c.
Craig-Y-Blanco
6a.
This has to be my favourite outcrop. There are some excellent climbs here but you really need to be climbing 5c to take full advantage! The outcrop is in the grounds of the High Rocks Inn and is therefore on private land. Since 2003, security has been enhanced and prospective climbers should go into the lower bar at the hotel and cough up your £5 (as of September 2004). An annual season ticket at £35 is great value. Poor behaviour almost had the crag closed in 2004 and the access situation remains, to say the least, delicate. Further problems and the most likely outcome will be a total ban on climbing which would be a disaster and a loss to the climbing community. Prospective day climbers and season ticket holders are required to go into the lower bar to pay or sign in - See 'Ownership' below for revised access arrangements from 1st September 2003.
The Sandstone Volunteers Group have put a lot of work in at this crag. The High Rocks Restoration Project has finished now and has been very succesful in its aim to return the crag, particularly the northern end to climbable conditions. The work has restored the grounds to a scene of beauty once more, removing the overhanging Rhododendron and allowing the sandstone to be seen. For more information, (including how you can get involved in the SVG), visit the Sandstone Volunteers Group website. During the restoration, the owner also put in a considerable sum of money for tree work.
The outcrop is, as the name suggests, higher than most of the other outcrops in the area although it is probably no higher than 35 feet/12m at most. The rock can take some time to dry as it faces North but the Hut Boulder and the Isolated Boulder, which do dry quite quickly, contain some excellent routes. Beware - the "High Rocks 5C" - the phenemenon is true - there are easier 6a's on other outcrops! There are some excellent Crack Climbs at this outcrop, and for the connoisseur, some wide and not-so-wide chimneys!
| NGR |
TQ559383 Sheet135 (1:25000), Sheet 188 (1:50000) |
| Number of climbs | 240+ |
| Grade range | 1a - 7a |
| Aspect | Main outcrop NW. Isolated boulders - all aspects! (Somewhat shaded). |
| Equipment | Some bolts. Mainly tree belays. Single ring on Hut boulder. Use a loooong static sling and a carpet sample at the crag edge! |
| Condition | Presently dry over almost the entire crag. |
| Bouldering | Excellent |
| Ownership |
High Rocks Inn - an entrance fee is payable at the lower bar. Note - new access arrangements from 1st September 2003.....Phone the High Rocks Inn the day before (01892 515532) to book and pay in the lower bar on arrival. As of September 2004, the entrance fee for 'one off' visits has increased to £5. There is now a 'season ticket' system in operation. This costs £35 per year and is available from the lower bar in the hotel. Season ticket holders should 'sign in' at the lower bar on each visit. |
| Other Facilities | Toilets at High Rocks Inn |
| Pubs | Opposite!! The Beacon at the top of Tea Garden Lane is also good. |
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Odin's
Wall 5c
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Coronation
Crack 5c.
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Craig-Y-Blanco
6a.
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| Central Crack 4c on the Hut Boulder. |
Click here for High Rocks Photo Gallery
Click HERE for the newer High Rocks Compilation...
Recommended Climbs:
6b/c: Nemesis, Krait Arete, Second Generation, Cool Bananas, Boonoonoonoos, (so I'm told!), Moving Staircase, Judy.
6a: Tilley Lamp Crack, Engagement Wall, Adder Crack, The Sphinx, Sputnik, Craig-y-Blanco, Infidel, The Lobster, The Dragon, Cut Steps Crack, Too Tall for Tim, Salad Days.
5c: Knife, Fork, Dinner Plate, Simian Mistake, Pussyfoot, Sequins of Cosmic Turbulence, Marquita, Luchita, Coronation Crack, Celebration, Mulligan's Wall, Odin's Wall, Rockney.
5b: Steps Crack, Effie, Birthday Arete, Monkey Nut, Krankenkopf Crack, Henry the Ninth, Advertisement Wall, Simian Face, Brenva, Swing Face, Pussyfoot, Cough Drop, Anaconda Corner.
5a: Simian Progress, Bell Rock Transverse Passage Route 1, North Wall.
There are also some great chimneys, particularly in the labyrinth area. However, for the conniseur, try Anaconda 5a, Boa-constrictor 5b and Cobra 4c...