Odin's
Wall 5c
Coronation
Crack 5c.
Craig-Y-Blanco
6a.
This has to be my favourite outcrop. There are some excellent climbs here but you really need to be climbing 5c to take full advantage! The outcrop is in the grounds of the High Rocks Inn and is therefore on private land. Since 2003, security has been enhanced and prospective climbers should go into the lower bar at the hotel and cough up your £10 (as of September 2009). An annual season ticket at £45.. Poor behaviour almost had the crag closed in 2004 and the access situation remains, to say the least, delicate. Further problems and the most likely outcome will be a total ban on climbing which would be a disaster and a loss to the climbing community. Prospective day climbers and season ticket holders are required to go into the lower bar to pay or sign in - See 'Ownership' below for revised access arrangements from October 2009.
The Sandstone Volunteers Group have put a lot of work in at this crag. The High Rocks Restoration Project has finished now and has been very succesful in its aim to return the crag, particularly the northern end to climbable conditions. The work has restored the grounds to a scene of beauty once more, removing the overhanging Rhododendron and allowing the sandstone to be seen. For more information, (including how you can get involved in the SVG), visit the Sandstone Volunteers Group website. During the restoration, the owner also put in a considerable sum of money for tree work.
The outcrop is, as the name suggests, higher than most of the other outcrops in the area although it is probably no higher than 35 feet/12m at most. The rock can take some time to dry as it faces North but the Hut Boulder and the Isolated Boulder, which do dry quite quickly, contain some excellent routes. Beware - the "High Rocks 5C" - the phenemenon is true - there are easier 6a's on other outcrops! There are some excellent Crack Climbs at this outcrop, and for the connoisseur, some wide and not-so-wide chimneys!
| NGR |
TQ559383 Sheet135 (1:25000), Sheet 188 (1:50000) |
| Number of climbs | 240+ |
| Grade range | 1a - 7a |
| Aspect | Main outcrop NW. Isolated boulders - all aspects! (Somewhat shaded). |
| Equipment | Some bolts. Mainly tree belays. Single ring on Hut boulder. Use a loooong static sling and a carpet sample at the crag edge! |
| Condition | Presently dry over almost the entire crag. |
| Bouldering | Excellent |
| Ownership |
High Rocks Inn - an entrance fee is payable at the lower bar. Note - the access arrangements that have existed since 1st September 2003 have been revised, mainly due to the selfish acts of a small number of climbers who think it's OK to break in through the fence or blatantly walk in through the front gates without paying. Access for day climbers is now £10. Season ticket holders will now pay £45 upon renewal. The requirement to sign in or purchas a ticket from the lower bar remains. visit. |
| Other Facilities | Toilets at High Rocks Inn |
| Pubs | Opposite!! The Beacon at the top of Tea Garden Lane is also good. |
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Odin's
Wall 5c
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Coronation
Crack 5c.
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Craig-Y-Blanco
6a.
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| Central Crack 4c on the Hut Boulder. |
Click here for High Rocks Photo Gallery
Click HERE for the newer High Rocks Compilation...
Recommended Climbs:
6b/c: Nemesis, Krait Arete, Second Generation, Cool Bananas, Boonoonoonoos, (so I'm told!), Moving Staircase, Judy.
6a: Tilley Lamp Crack, Engagement Wall, Adder Crack, The Sphinx, Sputnik, Craig-y-Blanco, Infidel, The Lobster, The Dragon, Cut Steps Crack, Too Tall for Tim, Salad Days.
5c: Knife, Fork, Dinner Plate, Simian Mistake, Pussyfoot, Sequins of Cosmic Turbulence, Marquita, Luchita, Coronation Crack, Celebration, Mulligan's Wall, Odin's Wall, Rockney.
5b: Steps Crack, Effie, Birthday Arete, Monkey Nut, Krankenkopf Crack, Henry the Ninth, Advertisement Wall, Simian Face, Brenva, Swing Face, Pussyfoot, Cough Drop, Anaconda Corner.
5a: Simian Progress, Bell Rock Transverse Passage Route 1, North Wall.
There are also some great chimneys, particularly in the labyrinth area. However, for the conniseur, try Anaconda 5a, Boa-constrictor 5b and Cobra 4c...