Under Rockes

Under Rockes.

Under Rockes is a small outcrop, somewhat detached from the others around Tunbridge Wells. This outcrop lies to the south of Rotherfield at NGR: TQ556264. Follow the track at 563263 (opposite the house called Twitts Ghyll, although the name board disappeared years ago) wnw then west for about 400m. Cross the field west to the outcrop which is in a wooded hollow. The outcrop consists of a main wall about 25 feet tall with two rows of square holes and further unquarried rock left and right. The routes on the main wall are all excellent. These are from the left: 13th Light 6a, Lionheart 6a, Uganda Wall 5c, Fireball 5c and Pressure 6a. The crack under the tree where the outcrop changes direction by 90 degrees is Central Crack 5c.

On the next wall is The Touch 5c and then on the arete - Evening arete 5a. Hear no evil 5a and Speak no evil 4b, are on the next wall. There are further routes to the east... Dark Crack 5c is worth a struggle and Trouble with Rubble also worth a look if it's clean. There are some recent (2006) new routes on the buttress left of the main wall.

NGR	TQ556264 Sheet135 (1:25000), Sheet 188 (1:50000)
Number of climbs	40+
Grade range	1b - 6b, mainly in the 5a-6b range. Not many routes <4a
Aspect	SSE. In fairly thick woodland so well shaded.
Equipment	No Bolts. Generally trees at top of outcrop. Use long length of tat to extend sling over crag edge.
Condition	Generally dry. Can retain moisture in winter. Coarse grain that tends to be sandy.
Bouldering	Not really suitable.
Ownership	Unknown - use discretion! (At one time, there were two huge dogs loose in the field to the right of the footpath!)
Other Facilities	Seclusion, no crowds - what more do you want!
Pubs	The Windmill Argos hill, The Five Ashes, Catts and the Kings Arms in Rotherfield.

Under Rockes - The Potholed Wall. Central Crack 5c under the tree...

A few more photos Here
The 2007 CC meet at Under Rockes - here

Recommended Climbs:

13th Light 6a - The left Hand row of potholes with a funky finish!
Lionheart 6a - the 2nd row of potholes. Top end 6a and tricky!
Uganda Wall 5b/c - The 3rd row...
Magic Pebble 5c- squeezed in between Uganda Wall and Fireball.
Fireball 5c - the 4th row - a good route.
Dogs of War 6a - between Fireball and Pressure - a good eliminate.
Pressure 6a - the right hand row - hard.
The crack to the right is Central Crack 5c - a great route - can be jammed, bridged or thugged but never taken for granted!
To the right of Central Crack is The Touch 5c, - good climbing when in condition. Step onto the ledge to finish up the wall.
Next right is Evening Arete 4c/5a.
Next right are Hear no Evil and Speak no Evil before Channelsea Crack and Outfall Crack 6a.
Around the corner, the rising line is Rapunzel 5b and the deep crack is Dark Crack 5c.

Further along on the next buttress Trouble with Rubble 5c takes a line almost on the far left. Right of the next chimney is Lamplight 5a/b - harder than it looks!
There are a few 'eliminate' routes between the pothole lines and the main wall has been girdled at the upper and lower pothole lines.

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